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I've been a Leapfrog user going on Three years now, I do know the machine very well.

If anyone needs assistant with a particular issue just hit me up with issues or tips.

1 person has this problem

Hello Pedro,

we`re planning to buy a Xeed (2015) for our company to print prototypes for semi- professional to professional use and use them for first functional tests.

I have a lot of experience with the stratasys µprint and I´m wondering what is the right choice, as we don´t have much time or don`t want to spend a lot of time to test out the printer or settings in simplify3D. So the best would be pressing "start" and getting a printed prototype after some time. On the other hand I´m highly interested in printing different materials with the Xeed.

What is your opinion?

Thank you in advance for your comment!

Hi Pedro,
Thanks for the quick reply.

I meant the firmware inside the creatr, not the PC software. Temperature control is done by the controller inside the creatr.  Both the Leapfrog official and modified firmware versions are available on the net.

My printer is about 3 years old or so.  More recent printers have a new electronics board designed for Leapfrog.  They have different firmware.

Unfortunately I haven't been too successfull in printing.  Have been using Repetier host with Slic3r.  Don't know what the problem is : bad settings, the slicer, bad temperature control, no Zabana cooler, ...

There doesn't seem to be an evaluation version of the Simplify3D software, is that right ? I'm not going to pay 140 bucks for software I can't try out first.

Best regards,
Hey pedro. Wow. Thanks for your time. I got it figured out. It was actually the plate that the headed bed attaches to. It was about to spins higher on the left feont z axis screw. But all better now. Now im just trying to get an entire print to finish and look good. Like i said im extremely new to the 3d world but an giving it my all lol. Any tips on ways to make my abs not warp, and for some reason on my finished prints they all look like crap on the top layer, rough with a lot of holes. Thanks again for your time . Happy printing

Dear Pedro,

I finally found the problem why the printer would sometimes shift a few frames and start printing at a different location. This problem was being caused by the cables, that power the x axis motor, getting stuck behind the build platform. This is possible due to the fact that these cables rest on the build platform, om taping them to frame right now but will print an upgrade so that this problem will never occur again. I would like to thank you for all the help that you have provided. I do have one more question thought.

Do you have any experience with using Cura and the Leapfrog creatr?

yours sincerely,

Julius Blaauw

Hi Pedro,

I bought a machine from LeapFrog directly. It came from Europe.

I noticed that machine came with 110/220 v settings. By default it is set to 220v. In US it is 110v. I bought a transformer from 110 to 220v.

Then I started heating up my machine - temperature of glass bed never go more than 75 C (default 90), And both extruders ( I have dual machine) not heat up more than 28-30C each. 


1. Where I can switch on printer from 220 to 110 v? Should it fix a problem? 

2. Should I blame transformer not to produce real 220V  (cheap   china  stuff  bought on Amazon) or I need to heat glass bed up first. Then extruders? 

Or all three parts 2 extruders and glass bed must be heated at same time to produce prints? 

Thank you for help.

P.S. please provide pictures where and how I can switch to 110v, as there no instructions included

Hi Alexandra

The only thing I can think of this happening to your print is that the filament roll is to tight, the extruder tugs on the filament as it needs it but when the role of filament gets stuck within itself the extruder keeps tugging as it prints therefore creating a void between the print, until the filament releases and starts normal again.

One way to avoid this is to examine your spool and unwind it some to see it its too tight and if it is you need to transfer it onto another spool at least half of it until you get the amount you need to print more or less.

Now for the gluing of your part I never seen this done.

You need to adjust your bed a little higher for the filament to stick.

Take a look at my YouTube video on how to get rid of the paper and start using AQUANET hairspray instead on the plate for printing. This will save you money and time.

For PLA keep the temperature on the bed at 40

For the PLA filament keep the temperature at 190.

I have other videos you can look at, that can help you.


Take it from me, my boards are 3 years old also.

You will have a better out come with simplify3d.

I had the same issue with slicer3r and repetier until I switch to simplify 3d, haven't had an issue ever since.

140.00 is nothing compared to a successful print ALL THE TIME.

You paid enough for the printer why not invest to make it preform the way you need it to do.

The headaches I save the time I save the filament I save is so well worth it using simplify3d.

Let me know what you decide


Hi Julius I'm glad you found the problem that actually happen to my printer before but it didn't dawn me that it could happen to someone else, next time I'll take that issue into consideration, Thanks I haven't used Cura, I have heard of people trying to use it, I'm a Simplify3D user, it works so great I don't bother with any other. I like to invest my money on products that work well. Have you thought about purchasing simplify3D it's a well worth investment.
Underneath your Creatr you will see the switch, just push it over to 110 and you should have no more issues. I'm surprise you didn't blow up the adriuno board, your lucky.
(1.11 MB)
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Thanks Pedro!


Hi Soldat The only reason I would by a Xeed is if I'm going to print inABS because it has an enclosure. All Leapfrog printers work great especially with simplify 3D. I own 4 Leapfrog Creatrs and I'm looking to purchase another one soon. I've own two makerbots one cube dou one revolution XL and they didn't last long and support was horrible to work with. My Leapfrog Creatrs rarely give me any issues and when they do they are easy to resolve and the support team is awesome, they back up there product 110% I recommend you stick with the idea of purchasing the Xeed, they are easy to use and resolve issues and the prints are awesome. If you do purchase the Xeed let me know so I can give you settings on the Simplify3D software to help you move forward faster instead of wasting time figuring out nice settings for your prints to come out. Have fun printing

Got it.

Thank you.

I haven't been a long time user of the Creatr but as of today I have pretty well changed every component under the hood as well as a couple motors, some rewiring and two heat beds.

Get the Simplify 3D software.. It works right great out of the box. and the prints are more than decent.  There is always room for tweaking and you may find you will need to do that because every machine is different and if you change filament suppliers setting change as well. the Simplify software makes it easy to do.

For whoever was asking about spare parts..Get yourself a decent mulitmeter and some basic tools and you should be able to troubleshoot most problems quickly on your own.. then Tech support is really easy.. just tell them the symptoms what you think is wrong, why and the part you need to replace  and you will have a new part usually in a week no need to buy them. 

 If you absolutely need to minimize downtime then get:
- spare X/Y motor

- Spare X axis wire - The old forum had at least 4 users - myself included - that had that wire fail - which may or may not blow the motor...

-  a few of the 40mm fans.. I've had 4 break on me and ended up replacing them with Fongsoning  fans (pn/FSY40s24M - which are the ones Makerbot uses). It more blades so quieter and the plastic is less prone to cracking)
- Spare build plate/glass  - I've replaced 2 now the heater burned out the second time resulted in needing to replace the main-board.

As for the metal support for the build plate - I haven't stripped any threads yet, but I plan on eventually drilling out the holes and installing PIM nuts. which will minimize the possibility of stripped threads..

hope that helps..

Hi Julius

Glad to here you went for Simplify, you should get much better prints now.

But from what I'm reading you changed some settings, bad move with Simplify.

You don't need to do that with Simplify.

Go to Simplify press on help on the drop menu press reset simplify.

restart your computer and start simplify again, apply correct printer when asked

Now just adjust heated bed to 40 or 45 for PLA and Extruder temp to 190 for PLA.

Don't adjust speeds, lower the supports 10 infill to 15 or more no need to go over 50 for best results.

and then you should be happy with the results

Hi Pedro, generous of you to offer your help!
I am considering purchase of CreatrHS, and have had some discussion with sales people, but they are very slow to reply! Maybe I will get better response here.
My questions to allow me to proceed or not:
- how much maintenance do you do to keep the printer printing well. Do you replace belts, do adjustments etc? I want to know if we should buy any spare parts also.
- do you have knowledge of the HS - I guess not if you have had one that long?
- I think the lower mass of the HS with the steppers not on the moving head is probably a very significant change to allow no only higher speed but also more accurate printing with less mass to accelerate / decelerate to attain correct nozzle location to the design. Any comments on this?
- anything else you see about the HS that you would comment on plus or minus?

Are there any Leapfrog users in NZ or Australia with the CreatrHS unit?
We expect to do ABS, Nylon mostly, maybe some PLA also.
Thanks for any hints...


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Filament Guide

  • Extrude at ~ 225o C.
  • Requires heated bed.
  • Works reasonably well without cooling.
  • Adheres best to polyimide tape.
  • Filament tolerances are usually tighter.
  • Prone to cracking, delamination, and wraping.
  • More flexible.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives or solvents(Acetone or MEK).
  • Fumes are unpleasent in enclosed areas.
  • Oil Based.
  • Extrude at ~ 180-225o C.
  • Benefits from heated bed.
  • Benefits greatly from cooling while printing.
  • Adheres well to a variety of surfaces.
  • Finer feature detail possible on a well calibrated machine.
  • Prone to curling of corners and overhangs.
  • More brittle.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives.
  • More pleasant smell when extruded.
  • Plant Based.

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