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Testing device printing


I plan to buy a 3D printer soon. I need a high precision of the printhead but I have a request. 

Could somone print and send me a testing device with a CreaTR printer? I am to going to use high precision measurement tools to check this printer's precision and repeatability. I have already designed the 3D testing model. 

Also if you have any feedback about the real precision of these printers I'd like to hear about it. 

Thank you for your attention. 


Hi David,

what you describe about a baseline sample from Leapfrog is the thing I would like to have as well at the moment. Since it is our first experience with 3D printing I have no comparasion to see if the problems lie within my settings or the printer. Unfortunately Leapfrog is not helping much with this subject. The only anwsers that I i get is to "keep printing" and try different settings to get better results.
That anwser for me as a customer is more than frustrating, obviously Leapfrog has no motiviation to help me since I already bought their printer. If I offer such a service to our customers we wouldn´t last tong as a company i guess. I am really frustrated about the customer service from Leapfrog at the moment.

However, I will give you a quick overview on my experience:
-We have our printer for about 6 weeks now and I spend about 50 hours on it. As well we bought a further "installation service" from our German reseller. When he came to install it, one week after delivery, we were already starting with printing. Our reseller as well said that the strong mechanical noises, and the printing quality are not normal. Since then I am in contact with Leapfrog directly (no anwser for a longer period of time anymore) and with our reseller who is trying to solve the problems with Leapfrog as well. But Leapfrog is giving alwas the same anwser to keep printing, even when the mechanical noises, and the poor printing quality gots significantly worse the past few weeks.
Apart from the first few prints which were just prints for fun to see what it can do i was printing small blocks in different sizes, with overhangs, without overhand, with holes and without holes. With every test i started with the Standard profile form Leapfrog and then treid to tune it.
Actually i have a lot of issues and experience that I couldn´t write it all in one morning. But the biggest issues are the inconsistent results, even when i use the same FFF, strongly depending on the position of the print on the bed. The loud noises causing vibrations result in rough surfaces in my print. Extremely slow printing speed. It is called a "HS" but really to get acceptable prints i cannot print faster than 30 mm/s, otherwise the layers don´t stick to each other or the details get lost in the print. This makes it extremely difficult to print big parts but have small details in some parts. As well i cannot print to parts after each other without turning the printer off and on between the prints, otherwise the printer looses its connection and stops in the beginning of the print.
I started printing with two colors for a few test prints, but so far the results are a disaster.
For the moment i am waiting for a response from Leapfrog because i cannot waste more time on it and have to return to my daily work.

If you want to exchange more of my experience with the printer or with LEapfrog maybe as well we can talk on the phone or by Skype. As well i could be interested to hear from other users about their experience, since there seems to be not much on the Internet these days.



Yeah 3d printing can be a tough nut to crack, no doubt. The joy you get when you start producing amazing prints is well worth it though.

David have you tried balancing the tension between the belts on the left and right sides controlling Y movement? This can be the source of mechanical noise.Also getting rid of a clog on the HS is like the easiest thing in the world. The trick is a 1.5 mm allen or hex tool. Just retract the filament from the clogged nozzle and then remove the feed tube from the quick connect fitting on the top of the extruder. Heat up to say 220 and then just push the 1.5 mm allen or hex tool straight down you will see filament come out the other end. Be aware that when you first push down with the tool it will feel like you hit a wall but push a little harder and it will give and the clog is gone. Ideally after you push down and break through the clog and filament comes out you want to pull the tool back up and push down again and do this a few times until you stop seeing material come out the nozzle and you stop meeting with any resistance.

Calibrating the bed of the HS is really quite easy using the Simplify 3D Bed Leveling Wizard and a metal feeler gauge. My experience in calibrating the nozzle with paper is that it is always too close. You should be able to effectively calibrate the bed in 15 - 20 minutes. Your nozzles should be level before you calibrate the bed and to make sure I always use a bubble level to make sure. 7 times out of 10 they are dead on. In the absence of a bubble level a steel block works good, a lot of people use the glass bed as a way to level the nozzle by letting them rest on the surface of the glass untightened and then tightening them as well.

Remember keep an open mind and look for solutions and you will achieve great 3d prints. The HS is a terrific platform but it requires a great operator and from what I can tell all of you sound like very smart people. Everyone here at Leapfrog will do whatever it takes to help.


Hi Christopher,

I have created a Skype account for 3DP related matters/discussion so feel free to send an invitation to connect to me on Dave3D15

Then we have more discussion and perhaps if i can find my spare webcam, set it up and show you how my setup is working.

Here is the strange thing.

Since the weekend and all the drama of so many failed prints and much frustration I came home and completely start all over again.

Deleted all the FFF Profiles downloaded the ones again from Leapfrog for PLA and ABS (I have some coming this week I hope).

Then methodically went thru these steps.

1. Removed the Blue Tape I was trying (didn't really like it but will try again as I think it just needs a little experimentation and one thing is to have no heat from what I have consistently read) - print directly to glass bed works so well when you get it right.

2. Recheck feed was working good = yes

3. IMPORTANT - Recalibrated bed at operating temperature (ie at 45°C) using a 0.2mm feeler gauge which worked well.

Note1: I have rechecked the bed calibration several times tonight after each print and needed to adjust the bed down a little. It is like it is creeping up marginally during each run. as when i rechecked the 0,20mm feeler gauge was tight.

Note2: Rechecking the center of my bed and find it is higher once all the corner are set to 0.2mm but not enough to affect the print from what i could see.

4. Used the default printer profile with one exception that I turned on supports, the profile is:

    Leapfrog CreatrHS_PLA(Left Extuder)200Micron_Medium_RE.fff

After doing all this I got some reasonably decent prints though I'm starting to see each part as having it's own quirks requiring the profile to 'massaged' a little though I am keen to try a great many variations to find the limits of machine and myself.

Refer attach photos of the last batch of prints.

Hopefully we may get a chance to chat this week; I will watch out for your invitation to connect,



Ps both of these were quite a challenge, the ball in a box because it took about 6-7 hours throughout the night.  The Nautilus Gear ... where do i begin but needless to say something that intricate and the speed the HS moves, i had to tweak the feeds down.


We received the Creatr HS 2 weeks ago and since then we are having more and more problems with the printing qualtity. Apart from that the printer started to make loud noises while moving the Y-axis.
Could it be possible that we send you a reference model that you print for us so we can compare our print to your print?
Could you as well send us the profiles you used for printing the reference model?

Kind regards


Yes, of course.

You can use the profiles from the solution here and reduce the retraction speed to 3600 mm/min.


thank you for your fast reply but we already print with those profiles.


Hi Christopher,

Rather than continually typing endless emails it would be good to have a discussion via Skype or phone.  Perhaps we can organise some time to call and chat further; how does this sound to you?

Kind regards,


I was thinking the same while I was writing the text. Sounds very fine :)


I don't own an HS but maybe I can offer some pointers.
After looking at your video it seems the biggest problem is getting good adhesion on the first layer. Everybody struggles with this at first.

1) If you are using blue tape it's best to turn off the bed heater.
2) I also usually wipe the surface of the tape with alcohol (91% or higher).
3) I would slow down the printing of the first layer quite a bit more. (At least until you are comfortable with what speed works.)
4) It's very important that the first layer actually squeezes into the surface of the blue tape. You may need to increase the first layer extrusion amount of raise the bed a little bit more. You should not see gaps between the printed lines on the first layer (once it starts to stick).

When you get this right, parts will likely rip the blue tape when you remove them.


Hello David,
i'm now reading for like 2h in this forum to find nice profile tweeks or solutions for the known problems. i work & study in the fh-potsdam and we bought the HS around 1 month ago. i also got very frustrated the last days and hope i find a way to realy "use" this printer. :) in one other discusion you said you are in berlin, is that right? i realy would love to compare our notes and experiences from the testings. i'm up for a call, meeting or skype! let me know if you're interested.


Hi Satyam,

You can request an invitation connection to me on Dave3D15 and we can chat, I usually am free (between  2100- 2230 so calling / messaging then is good) after the family have gone to bed, then this is my time to work on developing the printer techniques.

Talk to you soon.




My name is Cornel and i work for Leapfrog 3D printers Technical Support. I will gladly print the object for you and then mail it.

Please send me the STL file.

Which machine are you interested in buying? I will print the object on that specific model and you can check the accuracy.

Where are you having issues with your prints? Oozing, Stringing, or Dragging? Perhaps I can give you some insight on some tuning you can do to your settings.


Did you reduce the retraction speed as i have mentioned in the previous post? this can be a very decisive change.

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Filament Guide

  • Extrude at ~ 225o C.
  • Requires heated bed.
  • Works reasonably well without cooling.
  • Adheres best to polyimide tape.
  • Filament tolerances are usually tighter.
  • Prone to cracking, delamination, and wraping.
  • More flexible.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives or solvents(Acetone or MEK).
  • Fumes are unpleasent in enclosed areas.
  • Oil Based.
  • Extrude at ~ 180-225o C.
  • Benefits from heated bed.
  • Benefits greatly from cooling while printing.
  • Adheres well to a variety of surfaces.
  • Finer feature detail possible on a well calibrated machine.
  • Prone to curling of corners and overhangs.
  • More brittle.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives.
  • More pleasant smell when extruded.
  • Plant Based.

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